Saturday, October 24, 2009

Is the Grecian Dress The Uniform of the Recessionista?

Leighton Meester in a goddess gown by Bottega Veneta.


It has been a slow week for fashion piracy, but I came across an interesting article in the Wall Street Journal that chronicles the rise and fall of the Grecian dress.

For example, check out Ms. Blake Lively from Gossip Girl in this Oscar de la Renta dress:



Basically the article details how during a a recession, there is a shift in clothing from the ostentatiously ornate construction of dresses to a looser more free flowing look in clothes. This shift signals the rise of the Grecian dress which is typically either one shoulder or strapless. The dress involves pleating and folds which are generally more forgiving to the body. As a result, more women can wear this type of gown:

"Designers say the economic downturn and resulting implosion of the luxury market has resurrected the Grecian dress, which in the last few decades has emerged as the go-to look at times of financial or social turmoil. Valerie Steele, director of the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, notes that Grecian dresses were big in the 1970s, after the social revolution of the 1960s, as well as in the 1990s, after the excesses of the 1980s. 'We've been in this time of excess and we're in a clean moment now,' says Zac Posen, who showed Grecian-style dresses in his fall 2009 runway show. 'The Grecian dress is part of that clean moment.'"

One of the things that struck me was the near impossibility of actually being able to claim an IP claim on such a perennial design. When we look at actual silhouettes such as the Grecian dress, strapless dresses, column dresses, and wrap dresses it becomes clear why legislators are loathe to pass a bill that would protect fashion designers.

It is hard to decipher what is piracy and what is a normal fashion fad that is open to all designers and retailers. It will be interesting to notice how many designers will incorporate this trend into their own lines.

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